Again, I hooked up with my hitch-hiking buddy that made me good company!
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Fly fishing in junin de los Andes
Beautiful weather and good fishing and Junin de los Andes.
Again, I hooked up with my hitch-hiking buddy that made me good company!
Again, I hooked up with my hitch-hiking buddy that made me good company!
Sunday, April 21, 2013
Day 6-7 Bariloche and the seven lakes route to Junin de los Andes
Just arrived to Junin de los Andes and too tired to write, just posting pics this time
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Day 4 - Bike ride to Punta Loma
I definitely brought the wrong clothes to Puerto Madryn - I was expecting windy and grey autumn days but instead I found marvellous sunny days, apted for shorts and T-shirt. The great weather was perfect for a bike ride to another reserve, Punta Loma, reserve of sea lions, which lies 16 km from Puerto Madryn, mostly on no paved roads.
I rented a 2010 year model mountain bike, as recommended by the bike rental lady, as the 16 km bike ride to Punta Loma needed at least 2010 model bike to cope with the tough conditions on the road. Off I were, towards a new adventure. The sun was already hot (around 28 C) and my skin started to burn - well prepared as I am, I quickly addressed the problem by applying the sun cream, packed specially for occasions such as this one.
The bike ride was tough but at the same time pleasant, giving me time to think and enjoy the sceneries from the Atlantic ocean and the landscape, which to be honest was a bit dusty. Arriving to Punta Loma quickly made my mood rise - in this natural reserve, it was possible to get closer to the sea lions and enjoy their beauty (and hearing their sheep alike sound) even better.
I also got opportunity to interact with the reserve guard and another fellow bike rider, directly from Malaga, Spain. What used to be a great source of shame for me earlier, I nailed this time; I was able to recognize the Spanish accent in a second, and proudly ask: You are from Spain right? So the conversation continued in Spanish and even an episode of drama was served when a cyclist appared, making his exerice in protected area. When the guard pointed that out, we were all stunned by the rude reply from this fellow, saying that he doesn't care it is protected area. MALO!
On the way back, me and me new spanish friend hit the road back together, which brought a couple of new words in my spanish vocabulary. GUAY!
I rented a 2010 year model mountain bike, as recommended by the bike rental lady, as the 16 km bike ride to Punta Loma needed at least 2010 model bike to cope with the tough conditions on the road. Off I were, towards a new adventure. The sun was already hot (around 28 C) and my skin started to burn - well prepared as I am, I quickly addressed the problem by applying the sun cream, packed specially for occasions such as this one.
The bike ride was tough but at the same time pleasant, giving me time to think and enjoy the sceneries from the Atlantic ocean and the landscape, which to be honest was a bit dusty. Arriving to Punta Loma quickly made my mood rise - in this natural reserve, it was possible to get closer to the sea lions and enjoy their beauty (and hearing their sheep alike sound) even better.
I also got opportunity to interact with the reserve guard and another fellow bike rider, directly from Malaga, Spain. What used to be a great source of shame for me earlier, I nailed this time; I was able to recognize the Spanish accent in a second, and proudly ask: You are from Spain right? So the conversation continued in Spanish and even an episode of drama was served when a cyclist appared, making his exerice in protected area. When the guard pointed that out, we were all stunned by the rude reply from this fellow, saying that he doesn't care it is protected area. MALO!
On the way back, me and me new spanish friend hit the road back together, which brought a couple of new words in my spanish vocabulary. GUAY!
Day 5-6 Tren Patagonico Viedma - Bariloche
According to my fail safe plan, I managed to get from Puerto Madryn (bus ride, seat number 1) to San Antonio Oeste, just in time for the train, which was to take me to Bariloche. The only then that went wrong is that I forgot my fishing rod on the bus!!!! So clumzy!
I called the bus company, Central Argentino, I spoke to very nice lady working in the San Antonio office, and she was very helpful, so, I will follow up today how I can get the rod to Bariloche or Buenos Aires.
The train
The train is operated by Tren Patagonico, departures from Viedma each friday around 18, arriving to Bariloche at 12.30 on Saturday. Along the way it makes 16 stops, mostly briefs and it passes through some magnificent sceneries, starting from 9 in the morning, as the train advences Bariloche.
I hoped on in San Antonio Oeste, and with the help of excellent Lucas, working as the host on the traing, I quickly installed my self in my sleeping carriage, where I had all the commodities needed. Two beds with clean sheets, a towel, running water, mirror, somewhere to put up my feets while looking at the landscape and a little desk where I could do the writing from.
Train is a relaxed way of travelling, you can strech your legs, depending on the service, sleep in a bed and have a meal in the restaurant carriage. All that while enjoying the beautiful scenaries, not otherwise easy accessable. The only drawback is that it take some time but if you have the time, it is perfect, and inexpensive. I had all the time in the worlds, and together with me excellent equipment, I really felt like home. As Tren Patagonico is by the way much more comfortable than Ferrobaires (Buenos Aires - Bahia Blanca) I was able to update the blog and I was able to get ok sleep and will be ready for adventure in BARILOCHE!
Hasta Pronto!
I called the bus company, Central Argentino, I spoke to very nice lady working in the San Antonio office, and she was very helpful, so, I will follow up today how I can get the rod to Bariloche or Buenos Aires.
The train
The train is operated by Tren Patagonico, departures from Viedma each friday around 18, arriving to Bariloche at 12.30 on Saturday. Along the way it makes 16 stops, mostly briefs and it passes through some magnificent sceneries, starting from 9 in the morning, as the train advences Bariloche.
I hoped on in San Antonio Oeste, and with the help of excellent Lucas, working as the host on the traing, I quickly installed my self in my sleeping carriage, where I had all the commodities needed. Two beds with clean sheets, a towel, running water, mirror, somewhere to put up my feets while looking at the landscape and a little desk where I could do the writing from.
Train is a relaxed way of travelling, you can strech your legs, depending on the service, sleep in a bed and have a meal in the restaurant carriage. All that while enjoying the beautiful scenaries, not otherwise easy accessable. The only drawback is that it take some time but if you have the time, it is perfect, and inexpensive. I had all the time in the worlds, and together with me excellent equipment, I really felt like home. As Tren Patagonico is by the way much more comfortable than Ferrobaires (Buenos Aires - Bahia Blanca) I was able to update the blog and I was able to get ok sleep and will be ready for adventure in BARILOCHE!
Hasta Pronto!
Thursday, April 18, 2013
Day 3 - Puerto Madryn and Peninsula Valdes - extended version
Gaston, my life saver at the hostel Hi Patagonia, welcomed my at 7.00 in the morning despite the check-in was suppose to be a number of hours later. Gaston had booked me a tour to Peninsula Valdes that was to pick me up at 8.00 so I had some time to relax and update the blog before heading out.
The Hi Patagonia hostel seemed to be a private house, turned into a hostel. Hi Patagonia hostel looked like a typical suburban house, made of bricks, with a small but well maintained lawn separating it from the street. The lower floor comprised of reception, social areas and staff kitchen, from where breakfast was served. The rooms and bath rooms were on the first floor.
Behind the main house, there was a backyard with a small bar, implying that this place knows how to party.
Next to it lied an annex house, where the common kitchen and the mandatory Parilla (Argentinian barbeque facility) were residing. All this contributed to a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.
The excursion to Peninsula Valdes is a full-day tour, covering a total distance of about 400km, mainly on Makadam roud, which is in very well maintained, allowing cars to drive around 60-80km/h. Going on a guided tour is of course convenient and informative, but this tour can also be done with an own vehiacle, which I would recommend if you are 3 persons and more. As Peninsula Valdes is a provincial (Chubut) natural reserve and there is a entrance fee of 130 ARS (about 25 USD). The fauna to found is depending on the season, but typically, whales, dolphins, orcs, sea lions, sea elefants, lamas, number of bird species and Magellan pinguins can be spotted. As I was out of season, it wasn't at all sure that I was going to spot so many of the above mentioned.
The reason for the rich fauna is the gulf of Peninsula, where warmer currents from the north and colder ones from southern Patagonia meet - making this a nutrituis place for fish, crabs, shrimps etc. Access to food makes it a perfect place for all the sea lions, orcs, whales etc.
The terrain it self is more or less a dessert, even though it is possible to have sheeps on it, but you need a lot of land to be able to feed a descent amount of sheeps. My guide told that about 100 years ago, the land in Peninsula Valdes costed 1 USD per hektar (10000m2) and that you usually bought square kilometers of land. Now this land is worth much more because of the reservate.
The Atlantic ocean however, is blue as the sky and in many places transparent, looking like a paradise. There was exactly what we encountered at our first stop was Punta Norte, about 90 km from Puerto Madryn. The sight and the sound of the sea lion colony strucked me at once, although from a distance (visitors are not allowed near), the sight looked amazing. Seing sea lions babies playing with eachother in the crystal clear water is an incredible sight. Swimming in the water joyfully, makes you want to jump into the water and cuddle with them. On the land, they don't look that elegant though, basically dragging them selfs around and sounding like sheeps. I wonder is sometime, a confused sheep is attracted by that sound? You know, sheeps are not that smart..
Before heading further to look for pinguins, I was lucky enough to get a glimse of an orc, which is a gigantic dolphin but many times mistaken for a whale. Arriving to the usual spot where the Magellan pinguins were, to our guide surprise, there were still some pinguins left in the colony. This time, we were allowed to get really close and I was finding myself only a meter from a pinguin - it was fantastic and they looked exactly like on TV. The wonderful thing, is that they weren't afraid of the humans, the just stood there, soaking the sun, occupied by themselfs, not caring about what's happening around them.
One of our last stops was the pitoresc (I am on a train, without Internet to check the spelling) city of Puerto Piramides, which lies within the reserve. During season June-Mar it is filled up with people wanting to spot whales and dolphins and there are a number of companies providing boat tours for a close encounter. There is also a beach, which many times can be a good place for spotting whales - so why no combine a beach hang out with whale spotting.
By the time we arrived to Puerto Piramides, at 16.00 I was starving, after having an apple for breakfast. Living in Buenos Aires makes you miss good seafood, and I was curios to try the seafood and Puerto Madryn, which is suppose to have one of the best in Argentina. Being a low season, many restaurants were closed and the one we found was empty. I took a big chance ordering seafood, but the restaurant owner was assuring that it was all fresh, and catched in the reserve, where only traditional fishing by traditional methods was allowed. I wasn't dissapointed - it was like being in heaven, my sea food abstinence was bigger than I thought. This made me even confused; Argentina HAS good seafood but for some, for my completely mysterious reason, it is not easily to be found in Buenos Aires. Now, I have a good memory, that I can live on for a while.
The Hi Patagonia hostel seemed to be a private house, turned into a hostel. Hi Patagonia hostel looked like a typical suburban house, made of bricks, with a small but well maintained lawn separating it from the street. The lower floor comprised of reception, social areas and staff kitchen, from where breakfast was served. The rooms and bath rooms were on the first floor.
Behind the main house, there was a backyard with a small bar, implying that this place knows how to party.
Next to it lied an annex house, where the common kitchen and the mandatory Parilla (Argentinian barbeque facility) were residing. All this contributed to a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.
The excursion to Peninsula Valdes is a full-day tour, covering a total distance of about 400km, mainly on Makadam roud, which is in very well maintained, allowing cars to drive around 60-80km/h. Going on a guided tour is of course convenient and informative, but this tour can also be done with an own vehiacle, which I would recommend if you are 3 persons and more. As Peninsula Valdes is a provincial (Chubut) natural reserve and there is a entrance fee of 130 ARS (about 25 USD). The fauna to found is depending on the season, but typically, whales, dolphins, orcs, sea lions, sea elefants, lamas, number of bird species and Magellan pinguins can be spotted. As I was out of season, it wasn't at all sure that I was going to spot so many of the above mentioned.
The reason for the rich fauna is the gulf of Peninsula, where warmer currents from the north and colder ones from southern Patagonia meet - making this a nutrituis place for fish, crabs, shrimps etc. Access to food makes it a perfect place for all the sea lions, orcs, whales etc.
The terrain it self is more or less a dessert, even though it is possible to have sheeps on it, but you need a lot of land to be able to feed a descent amount of sheeps. My guide told that about 100 years ago, the land in Peninsula Valdes costed 1 USD per hektar (10000m2) and that you usually bought square kilometers of land. Now this land is worth much more because of the reservate.
The Atlantic ocean however, is blue as the sky and in many places transparent, looking like a paradise. There was exactly what we encountered at our first stop was Punta Norte, about 90 km from Puerto Madryn. The sight and the sound of the sea lion colony strucked me at once, although from a distance (visitors are not allowed near), the sight looked amazing. Seing sea lions babies playing with eachother in the crystal clear water is an incredible sight. Swimming in the water joyfully, makes you want to jump into the water and cuddle with them. On the land, they don't look that elegant though, basically dragging them selfs around and sounding like sheeps. I wonder is sometime, a confused sheep is attracted by that sound? You know, sheeps are not that smart..
Before heading further to look for pinguins, I was lucky enough to get a glimse of an orc, which is a gigantic dolphin but many times mistaken for a whale. Arriving to the usual spot where the Magellan pinguins were, to our guide surprise, there were still some pinguins left in the colony. This time, we were allowed to get really close and I was finding myself only a meter from a pinguin - it was fantastic and they looked exactly like on TV. The wonderful thing, is that they weren't afraid of the humans, the just stood there, soaking the sun, occupied by themselfs, not caring about what's happening around them.
One of our last stops was the pitoresc (I am on a train, without Internet to check the spelling) city of Puerto Piramides, which lies within the reserve. During season June-Mar it is filled up with people wanting to spot whales and dolphins and there are a number of companies providing boat tours for a close encounter. There is also a beach, which many times can be a good place for spotting whales - so why no combine a beach hang out with whale spotting.
By the time we arrived to Puerto Piramides, at 16.00 I was starving, after having an apple for breakfast. Living in Buenos Aires makes you miss good seafood, and I was curios to try the seafood and Puerto Madryn, which is suppose to have one of the best in Argentina. Being a low season, many restaurants were closed and the one we found was empty. I took a big chance ordering seafood, but the restaurant owner was assuring that it was all fresh, and catched in the reserve, where only traditional fishing by traditional methods was allowed. I wasn't dissapointed - it was like being in heaven, my sea food abstinence was bigger than I thought. This made me even confused; Argentina HAS good seafood but for some, for my completely mysterious reason, it is not easily to be found in Buenos Aires. Now, I have a good memory, that I can live on for a while.
Journey and arrival to puerto Madryn
Good bye 19th century and hello 20th - I have missed you! Travelling with bus and train are two totally different experiences - while the train got me to my destination in a cheap and rather uncomfortable way, the bus ride was so pleasant that I didn't want to get of. Maybe it had to do with being 6 in the morning when reaching Puerto Madryn and at the sime time being exausted from the day before but never the less, it was an excellent experience, from the moment I set my foot in the bus terminal in Bahia Blanca (BB).
As I chose to walk the 3 km from city center of BB, I passed by dark and sometimes rough industry districts, which didn't in any way imply I was on the right way, but suddenly it was there. My salvation, an ultra modern bus terminal with all service imaginable, Internet, clean toilets, showers, all very illuminated and steril - all what is expected from a modern commercial establishment. This was however what I needed at that point - I strolled around, hanged around with the smoking bus drivers, taking the opportunity to catch up before heading on the next trip through the wast lands of Patagonia. There were all dressed in the typical "bus driver way"; suite pants, a white shirt allowing the customary belly to peacefully rest on the tightened leather belt.
I din't have the pleasure to enjoy their company for too long before it was time for departure. as I walked into the bus to find my seat, I was met by this inviting, noble seat I was going to share my life with for the next 10 hours. Having spent a night in a bumpy train, followed by walking arouind in the city, I praised my self for purchasing the "CAMA" class, which is reclinable to almost form a bed, but to a neglecatable price difference. I was unpacking my stuff, making it my home for the coming hours. Off we were - Patagonia, here I come.
My bus seat - cama class
The ride was extremly smooth, maybe it was due to the line straight, almost empty roads or just the skills of the bus drivers, - it will remain unanswered. What one realize on such a trip is which sense of security this incredible machines gives you. Being there, in the dark night, long away from civilization, devouring road mile after mile, keeping you safe and warm. This sense is even more emphasized when overtaking a truck. It is like, seing them together, side by side, they become total authority, embodying the mankinds progress. Add the that some good music, to keep you company while sleeping, in my case Lana del Rey and Ravi Shankar - the only thing missing was my love!
The reclinable seats delivered and I slept through the night and woke up at 06.00 in the morning, in Puerto Madryn, 1400 km from Buenos Aires, ready for the excursion to Peninsula Valdes, a reserve for wales, orcs, pinguins, sea lions.
Welcome committee at bus station in Puerto Madryn
As I chose to walk the 3 km from city center of BB, I passed by dark and sometimes rough industry districts, which didn't in any way imply I was on the right way, but suddenly it was there. My salvation, an ultra modern bus terminal with all service imaginable, Internet, clean toilets, showers, all very illuminated and steril - all what is expected from a modern commercial establishment. This was however what I needed at that point - I strolled around, hanged around with the smoking bus drivers, taking the opportunity to catch up before heading on the next trip through the wast lands of Patagonia. There were all dressed in the typical "bus driver way"; suite pants, a white shirt allowing the customary belly to peacefully rest on the tightened leather belt.
I din't have the pleasure to enjoy their company for too long before it was time for departure. as I walked into the bus to find my seat, I was met by this inviting, noble seat I was going to share my life with for the next 10 hours. Having spent a night in a bumpy train, followed by walking arouind in the city, I praised my self for purchasing the "CAMA" class, which is reclinable to almost form a bed, but to a neglecatable price difference. I was unpacking my stuff, making it my home for the coming hours. Off we were - Patagonia, here I come.
My bus seat - cama class
The ride was extremly smooth, maybe it was due to the line straight, almost empty roads or just the skills of the bus drivers, - it will remain unanswered. What one realize on such a trip is which sense of security this incredible machines gives you. Being there, in the dark night, long away from civilization, devouring road mile after mile, keeping you safe and warm. This sense is even more emphasized when overtaking a truck. It is like, seing them together, side by side, they become total authority, embodying the mankinds progress. Add the that some good music, to keep you company while sleeping, in my case Lana del Rey and Ravi Shankar - the only thing missing was my love!
The reclinable seats delivered and I slept through the night and woke up at 06.00 in the morning, in Puerto Madryn, 1400 km from Buenos Aires, ready for the excursion to Peninsula Valdes, a reserve for wales, orcs, pinguins, sea lions.
Welcome committee at bus station in Puerto Madryn
On my way to Peninsula Valdes
Just entered the reserve of Peninsula Valdes where I hope to see sea lions, and if I am lucky wales and pinguins as well
They say that the writer of the Little Prince was inspired by the Peninsula Valdes when working as pilot in Argentina
They say that the writer of the Little Prince was inspired by the Peninsula Valdes when working as pilot in Argentina
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
A day in Bahia Blanca
Lessons learned: Check the forecast before going out on a trip. Today I walked around with 20+kg backpack and extreme weather hiking boots in 28 C (82 F) - not easy at all. I was under impression that going south (in southern hemisphere) means cold wheather and since we are in April (corresponding to European October), I figured it would be cold. But it wasn't - it was a perfect day for the beach.
According to my calculations, Bahia Blanca's longitud corresponds to Lisbon in Portugal. Add also the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean it is no surpise that there are palms in the city.
Bahia Blanca, or the white bay, was founded in 1828 in order to protect the local farmers and their cattle against the original ihabitans. It has a number of nice buildings and I was lucky enough to get my own private guided tour in the city theater (Teatro Municipal). I don't know if it was a lucky strike or something else, but it feels that people in general are nicer and more helpful to a backpacker; The lady in the theater walked me around every corner of it and was extremly patient with me not always following - mostly due to my efforts keeping up the appereance when in fact, my backpack was killing my shoulders. But it was completely worth it, and free.
Behind the scenes
According to my calculations, Bahia Blanca's longitud corresponds to Lisbon in Portugal. Add also the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean it is no surpise that there are palms in the city.
Bahia Blanca, or the white bay, was founded in 1828 in order to protect the local farmers and their cattle against the original ihabitans. It has a number of nice buildings and I was lucky enough to get my own private guided tour in the city theater (Teatro Municipal). I don't know if it was a lucky strike or something else, but it feels that people in general are nicer and more helpful to a backpacker; The lady in the theater walked me around every corner of it and was extremly patient with me not always following - mostly due to my efforts keeping up the appereance when in fact, my backpack was killing my shoulders. But it was completely worth it, and free.
Behind the scenesConstitucion train station and travel to Bahia Blanca
it is time for the first blog entry "on foot". I am currently sitting in a bumpy train coupe heading towards Bahia Blanca, 654 km south of the city of Buenos Aires.
From the moment I exited the front door of the apartment, I decided to do it the backpacking way, this means walking and utilizing public means of transport to largest extent possible. So, after being treated with an astronomically sized ice cream from my favourite place, I started the journey by a walk to the subway station, which would take me to the train station of Constitucion, where all the trains south depart from.
Walking with a backpack through the, by now, very well known neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, made me feel like a turist again, reminding me of the first days of arriving to Argentina. The same feeling of expectation I had back then, for everything that was lying ahead of me, appeared again and this was of course a good sign.
The train station hall
I arrived to the Constitucion train station almost an hour before train departure. So I had, some time to look around. I knew beforehand that this area wasn't the safest one in Buenos Aires, so, gringo as I am, I was on guard. However, I couldn't resist from taking out my camera and photographying the beautiful train station building. I bet it's designers imagined a more gloriuos destiny for the building than it has now; surrounded by highway and other buildings not as near beautiful as this pearl.
The train arriving
The train
One thing that still surprises me is the Portenos (citizens of BuenosAires) queuing discipline; in this big city, people perfectly stay in line at bus stations, in supermarkets and in this case, also train stations. I was tempted to follow my instinct and subtilly move to the front of the line, avoiding any potentially discouring eye contact, but I guess living one year in a city assimilates you.
Interior of the train
At 23.10, without any announcement, the lights in the train coupe were shut down and it became completely dark. As we were in the middle of endless Pampas, The only light to be spotted was from the stars and of course, mobile phones. Probably many cows out there, digesting the kilograms of grass eaten during the day. The Argentine pampas is an enormous grassland , almost as big as Sweden and Italy together, provides fresh grass all year round, which makes the Argentine beef so tender and tasty. When the spaniards first came to Argentina, in order to colonize it, they brought cows but colonization turned out harder than expected and many settlements were abondoned and the cows were left behind. Having few natural enemies, with rich food supply, the cows rapidly increased in number. The Argentinian similarity to cowboys, Gauchos, would back in the days suppose to be feeding on such cows - just catching them in the wild.
The station
Arriving to Bahia Blanca
After a 14 hours (did I mention bumpy) ride, I finally arrived to Bahia Blanca. I managed to get some sleep, even if it was interrupted from time to time by the carriage basically "jumping" on the tracks. The railway isn't prioritized in Argentina, and many railway tracks are taken out of service due to unprofitability and hence poor maintenance. At the time of the second world war, Argentina had 47000km of railroad, today only 34000km (source: wikipedia). This is a pity, because given the large distances, a modern railway system would make the transport of people and goods more eficient. Now, the main main for overland transport for people are buses - I am testing that tonight and I have great expectations.
But first, I will stroll around in Bahia Blanca.
Translation: Lounge for women only
From the moment I exited the front door of the apartment, I decided to do it the backpacking way, this means walking and utilizing public means of transport to largest extent possible. So, after being treated with an astronomically sized ice cream from my favourite place, I started the journey by a walk to the subway station, which would take me to the train station of Constitucion, where all the trains south depart from.
Walking with a backpack through the, by now, very well known neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, made me feel like a turist again, reminding me of the first days of arriving to Argentina. The same feeling of expectation I had back then, for everything that was lying ahead of me, appeared again and this was of course a good sign.
The train station hallI arrived to the Constitucion train station almost an hour before train departure. So I had, some time to look around. I knew beforehand that this area wasn't the safest one in Buenos Aires, so, gringo as I am, I was on guard. However, I couldn't resist from taking out my camera and photographying the beautiful train station building. I bet it's designers imagined a more gloriuos destiny for the building than it has now; surrounded by highway and other buildings not as near beautiful as this pearl.
The train arrivingThe train
One thing that still surprises me is the Portenos (citizens of BuenosAires) queuing discipline; in this big city, people perfectly stay in line at bus stations, in supermarkets and in this case, also train stations. I was tempted to follow my instinct and subtilly move to the front of the line, avoiding any potentially discouring eye contact, but I guess living one year in a city assimilates you.
Interior of the trainAt 23.10, without any announcement, the lights in the train coupe were shut down and it became completely dark. As we were in the middle of endless Pampas, The only light to be spotted was from the stars and of course, mobile phones. Probably many cows out there, digesting the kilograms of grass eaten during the day. The Argentine pampas is an enormous grassland , almost as big as Sweden and Italy together, provides fresh grass all year round, which makes the Argentine beef so tender and tasty. When the spaniards first came to Argentina, in order to colonize it, they brought cows but colonization turned out harder than expected and many settlements were abondoned and the cows were left behind. Having few natural enemies, with rich food supply, the cows rapidly increased in number. The Argentinian similarity to cowboys, Gauchos, would back in the days suppose to be feeding on such cows - just catching them in the wild.
The station
Arriving to Bahia Blanca
After a 14 hours (did I mention bumpy) ride, I finally arrived to Bahia Blanca. I managed to get some sleep, even if it was interrupted from time to time by the carriage basically "jumping" on the tracks. The railway isn't prioritized in Argentina, and many railway tracks are taken out of service due to unprofitability and hence poor maintenance. At the time of the second world war, Argentina had 47000km of railroad, today only 34000km (source: wikipedia). This is a pity, because given the large distances, a modern railway system would make the transport of people and goods more eficient. Now, the main main for overland transport for people are buses - I am testing that tonight and I have great expectations.
But first, I will stroll around in Bahia Blanca.
Translation: Lounge for women only
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)